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陕西寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

多布 2018-07-12 14:23:45

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小学生都知道,在英文里“瓷器”与“中国”同为一词。足见这项古老的发明是如何与中华文化息息相关。从唐代开始,对于西域的高富帅而言,一只优质的中国瓷盘就大致相当于今天的一辆法拉利跑车。

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

炉火千年不绝的陈炉是黄土高原与关中平原交界的一个乡土小镇,也是中国北方最著名的民窑——耀州窑的延续者。所以不妨把陈炉理解为一条运转了一千四百多年的“法拉利”生产线。陈炉的工匠们至今还仍用代代相袭的最原始工艺做着手中的“玩意儿”,和土为坯,转轮就制。

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

从耀州下了高速路,顺一条并不宽绰的公路绕着土塬盘旋而上,就一路开到了古镇的中心。站在高处端详,陈炉的格局就像一只倒扣的脸盆,“脸盆”四周是当地居民依次筑起的窑洞,一家的窑顶就是头顶另一家的院落。漫步在这样一个浑身透着陶瓷智慧的古镇里,到处能看到用废弃陶罐垒起的院墙,四下都是用碎瓷铺成的小巷,院门前也总安放着瓷墩供人休憩。贾平凹对此曾写到:“就这样层层叠起来,可谓人上有人,巷上有巷,墙壁是瓷的,台阶是瓷的,水沟是瓷的,连地面也是瓷片儿竖着一页一页铺成的。站在这里,一声呐喊,响声里便有了瓷的律音,空清而韵长,使人油然想起古罗马的城堡。”

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

这个千年古镇几乎家家户户都是世代制瓷高手,没有盖子的倒流壶、永远倒不满水的公道杯、千杯不醉的酒壶等一件件看似神秘离奇的青瓷物件,哪怕镇上的小孩子都知道其中的奥妙。

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

随意走进一家窑场打望,就看到几位女工正专注地在泥坯上刻画精细的花纹,另一间大屋子里一排排等待烧制的泥坯已经摆满了铁架。坩土是陈炉造瓷的主要原料,要经过风化、磨面、注水、搅拌、沉淀、加水回软等诸多工序从而为泥。眼前一个看上去四十有余的汉子正用传统的石轮车手工拉坯,但见他抓了一团泥放在转盘上让其飞速旋转,左手伸过去稳住泥,右手的大拇指侧旁施压,须臾之间便鼓捣出一只花瓶来。

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

陈炉窑,不论碗、盘、碟、盅、盏、瓮、坛、壶、盂、枕,千年来都是这样以手拉坯,晾干后再进行上彩、剔花、装窑、点火、烧窑、开窑等一套完整工序。这位姓赵的师傅告诉我们,这里的大部分窑户从挖泥、淘洗、成型到彩绘、烧成,所有工序都能自己完成,怎教人不心生佩服。

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

千百年来炉火相延,传统的制瓷手艺一代代手口相传。但如今镇上的年轻人耐不下性子学,大都选择外出打工。“真是害怕这么多年的手艺到我们这代失传了。“赵师傅抽了口旱烟,不无忧心地念叨。

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

陈炉,一千多年泥土的坚守,寻访中国北方最著名的民窑“耀州窑”

史料记载,陈炉曾经一度有8000户,瓷户专营拉坯,窑户专营烧制,行户即是批发商,足见熙熙攘攘之气象。如今的陈炉古镇已然坐拥全国重点文物保护单位、非物质文化遗产保护名录、中国历史文化名镇和中国民间文化艺术之乡之美誉,可这四块金字招牌可否成为千年炉火的护身符?可否让赵师傅的忧心化为杞人忧天?恐怕无从知晓。(图文/多布)

资深杂志编辑、摄影记者,CFP 图片库签约摄影师
资深杂志编辑、摄影记者,CFP 图片库签约摄影师

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